Flat Tire

Flat Tire

Flat Tire

geraldlanc1
20 June 2010
09:44 AM
A tire on my HDT went flat overnight - I'm in Austin, TX and Good Sam wasn't able to find anyone to come out (Father's Day) to fix the tire.  A mobile service might be an option tomorrow, or as GS suggested, have it towed to a nearby center for a quick fix and then on our way.  My question is: is it ok to tow a truck with an automatic transmission?
Gerald
Scrap
20 June 2010
10:12 AM
Yep, they tow well.  I'd go the mobile service route.  He could have it fixed before the hook gets his coveralls on!

Crazy that you can't get one to come out on Fathers Day?  Can't say I've ever tried, and I'd probably have to double the meat on the BBQ, but I'm pretty sure mine would.

Wild Bill
20 June 2010
10:16 AM
When an HDT is towed, the drive shaft is disconnected - it cannot be towed without that.  Been towed a few times, usually with a load, and always when I was behind schedule.
HERO Maker
20 June 2010
10:25 AM
As I am writing these questions, they sound kind of stupid to me, but I was trying to think what I would do in your situation.

It must be a steer tire that went flat?  Otherwise, how would we know if one of the rear tires?  Unless you have a tire monitor system.

Have you tried airing it up?  Could it then get you to a repair place that is open?

If it is a rear flat, then can't we just air it up and try and get to the repair place?  Unless you hear the air coming out quickly.

Sorry you are stuck there and I am very interested in what the correct procedures would be in your situation.

geraldlanc1
20 June 2010
10:52 AM
The problem is the stem in a new steer tire.  GS did not locate a mobile service for me, so I found one myself - they will send a tech this afternoon.
HERO Maker
20 June 2010
11:45 AM
Glad you will be back on the road.

So what is the value of Good Sam???  Aren't they sitting in front of the computer, with all the "regular" contact info in front of them, and aren't they supposed to do your search work for you, or is it they use only their own contracted service groups?

BTW, when was the new steer tire installed?

hjsdds
20 June 2010
12:14 PM
Rocky
I had Kechup towed couple of months ago.  Oil pressure sensor crapped out, Volvo computer doesn't like low oil pressure reading and gives you about 15 seconds before it shuts the engine off.

Lots of fun on a country road with no shoulders and draining ditches on both sides.

Good Sam understood not to send a pickup to tow it and it was done at night in about 30 minutes.  But we are in a northeast, it's pretty densely populated, lots of Yankees around here.

I managed to get it to a parking lot and turn it around, the guy shoved the lift arm under the rear and picked up the rear axle.  This avoided the shaft disconnect routine to deal with the brake cans.

He also commented on my plan to have a full storage compartment under the rear, it would have been impossible to do that.

"How about lifting it by the bumper," I asked. He wasn't too keen on that not knowing how the bumper is attached.

I think my bumper is well attached to the frame.

But I might fabricate couple of inserts to go into those square vertical tubes to facilitate pickup with the lift arm.

HERO Maker
20 June 2010
12:52 PM
Thanks Henry.  Good info. I imagine that the cans need released with or without drive shaft connected?

I have roadside assistance connected with an extended warranty agreement I have.  Will now look at it to see how strong, or weak, it might be.

If you did have rear boxes, and they lift the truck from the front, how high can they lift before your rear is grinding on the pavement.  Do they ever winch these trucks up on flatbeds?  Would it still clear?  Wow, lots to think about when creating your bed design!  I'm thinking of Dan's extended bed and how that would work?

You're probably right building lift connections into the rear for this sort of thing.  Non of us add anything on to the front that would not clear a rear lift.

hjsdds
20 June 2010
01:40 PM
Rocky
On extended frames, like Dan's, we sloped the undercarriage (and the bumper) quite a ways up provide clearance (as opposed to some other designs I have seen).  Even with that they might have trouble extending the lift arm on the wrecker to reach all the way to the axle.  And remember, as was discussed in earlier posts, how do they get there to deal with the shaft or caging the cans with the body on.
I'm getting tired hearing this counter-argument.  "We can get to most things under the body to service it". Bullshit!!!!!!!!!!!

Other than the trucks I converted, no other body builders that I know put access panels in their decks to get to things like DRIVESHAFTS FOR INSTANCE, that you might have to disconnect (on the road).  Towing from the front is not easy, somehow you have to keep the brake cans open and that's not easy with most "leaky" air systems.  I would think about a hefty bumper and bumper attach.  This is how we did it on several trucks including mine.  This is from Donnie Barns' design files.

geraldlanc1
20 June 2010
04:56 PM
The steer tire is 900 miles new.  GS only searches for contracted vendors, but they can work out an arrangement with the non-contacts apparently.  The work has been done, it was a broken valve stem.  Colorado here we come!!
Gerald
HERO Maker
20 June 2010
06:38 PM
That's good news Gerald.

Enjoy and be safe,

SuiteSuccess
20 June 2010
07:07 PM
Since I'm gonna be new to this and collecting a file to carry with me in the truck, would someone please explain in detail about "brake cans" and why the drive shaft would need to be disconnected if towed from the front.  Also do most HDT tow companies know this stuff?  I don't want to be caught on the road and stand idle while some yokel ruins my truck.  Also any other "on the road" tidbits you veterans can offer would be appreciated.
Jack Mayer
20 June 2010
08:47 PM
Henry, what's the problem with crawling under the truck to do that stuff, everything is accessible UNDER my body.  Been there, done that.  Of course, it is not quite as convenient as walking into the open frame area....
trucksaledave
20 June 2010
08:54 PM
If you have access to the internet while on the road broke down you can always find a vendor for most anything thru www.truckdown.com JMO trucksaledave
Wild Bill
21 June 2010
12:43 AM
The reason drive shafts have to be disconnected when towing frontwards, is that the transmission is not able to be towed - either the manual version or the AutoShift will damage the transmission if towed without the front shaft turning the lubrication.  The brake cans are the emergency breaks that deploy without air pressure - operated by springs, these brakes need to be caged, or screwed to an open position - otherwise the wheels will not turn - they hold a loaded truck, so they are on tight.
B Gafka
21 June 2010
08:10 AM
Also if you do not have a weed burner system & are being towed from the rear cover your exhaust pipe.
MsChrissi
21 June 2010
11:32 AM
We resigned ourselves to needing access to everything between the chassis rails, I likened it to the deep bilge of my sailboat so the whole section of floor between the rails needs to be removable for service access.  The cross pieces will be in the way to some extent but we already are used to dropping down between them to get at things.  Knowing what the access level is beforehand helps when placing items that will need attention later.

The tow rings that fit in the front of the truck, would there be an advantage to having sockets for them in the rear as well?

HERO Maker
21 June 2010
01:09 PM
That may be what Henry was talking about to eliminate the "bumper pull" that the other guy was worried about.  A couple of inserts there to hook up to.
Hogrydr
21 June 2010
05:40 PM
The answer to that question is that a reputable tow service knows how to tow a HDT.  They will remove the drive shaft and cage the cans, tows easy and will take a good tow operator about 20 minutes or less to get it sucked up and towable
Bill Baxter
21 June 2010
06:30 PM
Agree with drive shaft disconnect for dual axle or if singled usually pull one axle.  And then connect the air hose from the tower to the towee and release the brakes.  I assume that every one has an easily accessible air connection with shutoff valve.  Right?  Yah, I know you can cage the spring brakes.  But why?  When MR Wind releases with the push of a button.

BTW thanks for all the info posted here.  A lot pertains to my bus conversion.  Again thanks.
Bill

Bob Speckman
21 June 2010
08:06 PM
On a recent tow they simply unscrewed the air line from the compressor and hooked up a air line from the tow truck - simple, faster and easier than caging brakes, also keeps air in the suspension.

Towing from the front was not a issue and I probably have one of the longer behind the axle beds on this forum.  The entire rear of my bed can be removed easily if necessary for access to differential, rear brakes and suspension components.

It will be interesting to see if GS pays to a service vendor they did not dispatch.  I had problems with GS not paying vendors they did dispatch but that's another topic

DonF
23 June 2010
01:32 AM
I am sure curious WHY the deal with non-weed-burner exhaust pipe needs to be covered?!?

I've been towed, the guy did use special hooks designed for Volvo front frame; he kept air in the lines, disconnected the drive shaft and off we went (HDT and RV together) until we could drop the RV, then off to drop the HDT for a new radiator!

In years past, GS was not always a prompt-pay to their contract vendors; I think they've improved on that subject, what with competition from CoachNet, Allstate, and others. We have both -- CoachNet (via the National Interstate vehicle insurance) and GS, directly; have used both several times in the last 3 years, good results from each!
Don

p.s. I've also been towed from behind -- when running bob-tail and had broken battery wire that shut me down; was even quicker to lift & drag to the shop for wire & battery-box clean up and repair.

rickeieio
23 June 2010
07:02 AM
In the old days, folks feared that the air entering the exhaust would spin the turbo backwards with no lubrication, since the engine isn't running.  When we would send a farm tractor to the dealer, we would always tape the rain cap closed, just in case.

However, if you think about it, the air can only pass through any cylinder that both exhaust AND intake valves open.  I suppose the turbo could turn, but fast enough to cause damage?

Jeff- C IL
23 June 2010
10:16 AM
I know it doesn't sound reasonable, but it does happen.  Safe bet is cover the exhaust.  5 min. work with duct tape vs. a possible $1K turbo.