Volvo 630 Headlight Haze

Volvo 630 Headlight Haze

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Cattleman 06 September 2010 01:19 PM	Any Idea's on what kind of product to use, And should I use a buffing wheel on them.
Letz4wheel 06 September 2010 01:34 PM	I have never used it myself but I hear good stuff about this product. By the way I know nothing of the outfit I posted it from. They were just the 1st in line I understand Wal-Mart carries it also. Headlight Kit
Darryl&Rita 06 September 2010 10:34 PM	"Trucks", on SpikeTV covered this on the weekend. The recommended process was to start with a wet sand using 1500 grit paper to take off the worst of it. Follow up with a dual action buffing wheel, and a light buffing compound, to polish the haze out. They also demonstrated the result of using TOOTHPASTE and the buffer. The results weren't to bad looking, considering the price difference for good buffing compound.
Toterman 07 September 2010 07:00 AM	Just keep an eye on eBay, purchase new ones ! JMHO David
H-D Rob 07 September 2010 07:32 AM	You can use finger nail polish remover...
Ray H 07 September 2010 06:05 PM	I purchased new ones from Volvo approximately 18 months ago and they are now starting to haze over. Of course, parked in the Arizona summer sun sure doesn't help the issue. Probably should protect them with some sort of cover when sitting. Ray
Quinn The Eskimo 07 September 2010 07:20 PM	Does this mean that you brought it home and I can stop out and see how hazed the lights are in person.
Mark Trumbull 08 September 2010 09:16 AM	Mothers Plastic Polish and a buffing wheel. Just did mine and they didn't come out badly. I've got a bunch of deeper gouges that the edges of stick up - going to attack them with something like 1500 grit (if I can find it) then back to the Mothers. Mothers will also protect new lenses from the sun - even the Arizona sun. Cheers, Mark
Scubadave 08 September 2010 10:59 AM	Check out this link, Then decide if you want to use this product, sand off the haze or buy new lenses. I tried it on lenses that had already been sanded and it did help but I should have bought new lenses. Or I could just not drive when conditions require headlights
GypsyProgrammer 09 September 2010 03:55 AM	The Trucks! episode was a rerun, I watched it earlier this year before I decided to tackle the headlights on my F350. BTW, avoid the toothpaste idea, you'll just end up with good smelling hazy headlights. The various sizes of wet sanding works pretty good, the only drawback there is you'll need a sealer or they won't stay clear very long. You also have the option of getting a kit at the auto parts store that includes a cleaner, sanding supplies, polishing cream and sealer. A lot of older Fords had this problem too. I think I paid around $10 for the kit and it would probably be enough supplies to do a Volvo. I did my F350 and have enough left to do my Explorer. I also used a buffer after sanding off the discolored plastic. Just be careful with a buffer, the headlights burn easily and then you have to start all over.
D K. 09 September 2010 08:30 AM	I've polished numerous sets of lights using several different techniques over the years. It really boils down to how much continued maintenance you are willing to invest in them once you wet sand them, because the factory clear coating the lenses have on them lasts for years, but once removed makes the lights a constant buffing item on your wash days. If you find a source for new lights in good shape, your best solution is to just replace them. Craig's list, eBay and even some Google based parts vendors will sell them for very fair prices.
Darryl&Rita 09 September 2010 08:43 AM	I LOL'd on the toothpaste myself, but couldn't the clear be re-applied after a good cleaning? It's available in a spray can, but it might mean pulling them to avoid the over spray/wind drift.
D K. 09 September 2010 08:52 AM	The clear coat can be re applied, but after you buff the surface and melt polish into it, the adhesion is just not the same. Removing the lights is the only way I do it. buffing the fender's paint along with the light lens is just further frustration to deal with. If you just want the projection part of the lenses buffed for function, you can skip the outer rim edge, masking tape and heavy masking paper will keep most of the sanding, buffing and clear coat off. It's just really not the same compared to outright replacement. Cost factor is the only reason to attempt refurbishing them, but there are so many aftermarket and used parts for these trucks now that only the tightest fist can squawk over the cost of polishing verses R/R.